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Ok so the trains were definitely impressive. I think the longest we waited at any hour was 4 minutes. Our first day we made the rookie mistake of taking the hotel shuttle so we did avoid the chaos of commute hours on the train. We then wandered around trying to locate our guest house which turned out to be somebody's apartment on the 5th floor of one of a zillion identical 40 story buildings in Causeway Bay which is like the HK mission district or something. We thought the room was quite awful until the hotel workers showed our room to some interested tourists who commented on how wonderful it was compared to "the other place." Oh well I guess it was clean and had free internet. The only problem was finding food, the lines were so long it wasn't worth most people's time to deal with "Englibabas"!
On our first full day in HK we decided to see the city, for about 30 seconds, then we hopped on the nearest ferry out of there. It turned out to go to Lantau island which was awesome. We waited the usual 60 seconds for a bus up to the Giant Buddha and Tourist Trap which was fun; we also took a short hike to admire the views. There was also a pretty cool "Wisdom Path" with 30 huge pillars with some kind of Buddhist prayer written on them in beautiful calligraphy which if we'd been able to read Chinese we would now be enlightened! But sorry, no enlightenment for us. Yet.
After waiting 2 more seconds for the next bus we headed out to Tai O, which was a nifty little fishing village with stainless steel shacks on stilts in the mud flats. Clearly the US dollar is worthless because the locals were way more interested in fishing and totally ignored all the tourists wandering around. Last we went over and found the one big town on the island (40 fifty story skyscrapers surrounded by 99% nature preserve with no people around anywhere due to it being work hours.) However in the dark shadows under the buildings we found the fanciest Pizza Hut ever, white cloth and silver and everything. Unfortunately we were too poor to eat there because we are too lazy to have jobs like proper HK residents. We discovered that we could also take the train back from this island due to the fact that the train goes absolutely everywhere, so we returned to the chaos (during commute hours, yeah) and crashed after a meal of pork buns. Mmm, pork buns. OK over to Sam for the next day on HK island.
We woke up at the usual 4AM HK time and wondered the streets when it was fairly empty. Only about 1M persons per square mile. I was able to find a small cafe in an alley that had "Americanaaa" menu. Yo
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Once we made halfway down the hill, we finally found the infamous "Mid Levels Escalators" which is a series of escalators that runs from downtown. These escalators sucks according to Amy but my fat ass sure appreciated them. Except, we were on our way down and not up. They only run upwards in the PM and we think they run downwards in the AM for those damn rich lazy Hongkongneese. We got tired, grumpy, and headed home to our cell block to bed but not after another $1US pork bun each for dinner. Mmmmmm pork buns.
On the last day we decided to really get out of town and took about a zillion trains and one bus out to Tai Po Kau nature preserve. The 2 hour hike was tough but enjoyable (except for the large crowds hiking at 1/2km per hour which we finally pushed down the cliff in order to get around them. Sorry people whoever you were.)
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The best part of the day came when the crowds died down in the evening and we finally braved the food on a stick. We got yellow fish gummy, mystery meat, and tentacle all dipped in the spiciest most delicious satay. Crying tears of joy and spiciness we turned in early so we could get up today and catch our flight to Bangkok.
Final thoughts on Hong Kong
- trains and roads are excellent despite the steepness of the island (the roads put Devil's Slide in Pacifica to shame both in steepness and in constant maintenance)
- the food is not so good when you are poor and don't speak Cantonese, but it is possible to survive on pork buns and bananas
- people don't form lines for food (biggest hungriest person wins) but do for line up neatly for buses and trains
- kung fu does not exist but there's lots of Tai Chi
- stay in your hotel between 5pm and 5am weekdays, all day weekends to avoid being smushed by the local pedestrian crowds
- don't stay downtown if you go there. In fact don't go there again ever!
2 comments:
Hi Amy,
I forgot to give you a list of good restaurants Henny and I like to eat at. Are there any chance you'll be visiting HK again?
Sounds like you are saving the best places for last on your trip :)
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